Plant type: Perennial
USDA Hardiness Zones: 4a to 10a
Height: 36″ to 48″
Spread: 24″ to 48″
Exposure: partial shade partial sun to full sun
Bloom Color: Orange, Pink, Purple, Red, Yellow
Bloom Time: Early summer, Early fall, Late summer, Late spring, Mid summer
Leaf Color: Green
Growth Rate: average
Soil Condition: Acidic, Clay, Loamy, Neutral, Sandy, Well drained
Form: Irregular or sprawling, Upright or erect
Border, Container, Ground cover, Massing, Seashore
Attractive foliage, Not North American native, Naturalizing, Attracts butterflies, Suitable for cut flowers, Fragrant flowers
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Question: I have a flowering crabapple in front of my house and just recently I’ve noticed that some of the leaves have turned yellow and have black spots on them. I was wondering if this was a specific disease for this tree, and if there was anything I could treat it with? Thank you!
Answer: Most likely your crabapple is infected with apple scab, a common disease of crabapples, especially many of the older varieties. It is caused by a fungus and is most severe following a wet spring. Since the fungus lives through the winter in diseased plant debris, it is important to clear away all fallen leaves and fruit from under the tree. This may not totally prevent disease in the future, but it will help lessen its occurrence. Chemical control involves application of a fungicide. You’ll get best control if you spray before or at the first sign of the disease. Repeat applications may need to be made as long as the weather conditions are suitable for the spread of the disease. (Fungicides prevent new infections; they don’t cure existing ones.) It is critical to follow the directions on the fungicide label exactly as to when and how often to apply it. For advice on which fungicides are registered for apple scab control in your state, contact your local Cooperative Extension Service office. Remember to read and follow the label instructions and precautions exactly! When the time comes to replace the crabapple, be sure to look for the newer disease resistant varieties.Your local Extension office or experienced nursery or garden center staff are usually good sources of information on disease-resistant crabapples that will do well in your area.
Question: How do you keep cats from using the garden soil as their own personal litter pan?
Answer: There are three approaches you can take to keeping cats out of your garden: lures, repellents, and barriers. Their fondness for catnip can work to your advantage if you locate a few plants far away from your garden. Cats are repelled by garlic sprays and by a sprinkling of ground black pepper around the perimeter of the garden. You can also try laying a flat section of chicken wire over newly planted beds because cats can’t dig through it. By the time your plants have grown big enough to necessitate removal of the chicken wire, hopefully your cats have developed better manners.
Question: We have lots of deer on our property. Are there any flowering bulbs that deer won’t eat?
Answer: Unfortunately, deer seem to consider bulbs to be the equivalent of deer candy. In many cases, they devour the flowers of both spring- and summer-blooming bulbs just as they open, if not sooner. Deer often avoid daffodils, as well as the little chionodoxa, and sometimes they’ll leave crocus alone (although chipmunks often get to those). If you really want bulbs, you should consider a fence or caging arrangement for your bulb garden — and for other plantings as well if the deer population is very high and they are in the habit of browsing in your yard.
Set bareroot strawberries out as soon as they arrive. Make the planting hole wide enough to fan out the roots. Be sure not to plant too deeply. Set them so their crowns (where the roots and the top of the plant meet) are just slightly above the soil line. If they are set too deep, the crowns may rot; too shallow and the roots can dry out. Give the newly planted strawberries a drink of fish emulsion to get them off to a good start, then recheck their planting depth after the soil has settled.
Avoid planting members of the same plant family in the same spot year after year in your vegetable garden. This helps break disease and insect cycles, and reduces the likelihood of depleting the soil of specific nutrients.
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— From the ArcaMax editors